A NEW GENERATION OF KOBE Usunaga-san is a young Tajima cattle farmer in Kobe, the home of the world famous Kobe Beef. Most of the cattle he raises qualify as Kobe beef: a title protected by some of the strictest standards in the world. But unlike many, Usunaga San isn’t chasing the highest marbling scores. He’s chasing something deeper. Flavor. Structure. Umami. Instead of relying on imported, and in most cases high-fat grain diets, he collaborates with local producers to create a rare, domestic